Seems that you will be soon on the water with your brand new Tiki! :)
Im hoping to get my Tiki first hull into 3D in the beginning of next week. The moment of truth….
Anyway, could you tell me what method did you use in installing the deck -- did you prior stitched the deck stringers to deck and then glued all this to the hull (like Wharram suggests in the instructions) or did you fist glued deck stringers to the beams and then glued the deck to the stringers, beams and to the sheer (using weights or maybe straps to fasten the deck until the joints will cure)?
PS! Did I noticed correctly that you did not use nails in glueing the beams to bulkheads? I switched to just clamping as well… the nail thing in that section is pretty messy and I do not like those un-sinked nail heads…
I bet you are excited to go 3D. It's like making two giant tacos!
For the deck I did stitch the stringers to the deck beforehand. I laid them in the slots on the bulkheads first and then clamped the deck down on top. Then I marked where they were underneath with a pen. I took it all back off and then stitched them along the lines I had drawn. Once cured I made some mini fillets along them, epoxy coated them, and installed them.
For installing the decks I put glue on top of all the bulkhead supports and along the sides of the sheerstringers. Then I placed the deck down on top. I clamped it all the way around and installed a temporary wood screw about every two inches all the way around and a few across the bulkheads to seat everything well. I tried just using clamps, but they allowed for a lumpy edge to the deck.
Once that was cured I filled in the gap between deck and sheerstringer with epoxy and belt sanded it down flush. Be sure to cut the decks a little over the lines for this.
You are correct. I started just clamping stuff like bunk supports. Be sure to sand the edges of the supports at a small angle to follow the hull curvature. I had to pull all mine out to redo this!
PS! Do those temporary wood screws come out easily after epoxy in the joints are cured?
Yes, Im really exited to go 3D, now I have all the sides of both hull measured and cut out and its time to epoxy coat them and glueing them together. It took me for ages to measure and mark those bulkheads :)) I got really paranoid in the end, checking everything over and over again. I had a little excitement due the fact I run into, namely it appears, that European 8 foot standard plywood sheet isn't 8 foot long, but approx 6 cm / 2,3 inches longer… I thought that I have had marked the measures incorrect as the butt blocks and 2nd and 4th bulkhead didn't fall in the pace where they ought to be regarding the ply edges according Wharram plans… so I had to remeasure and redraw everything and have some little extension for the butt blocks upper parts… :) Lesson learned: always check if standard item is actually a standard item :))
Hi!
ReplyDeleteSeems that you will be soon on the water with your brand new Tiki! :)
Im hoping to get my Tiki first hull into 3D in the beginning of next week. The moment of truth….
Anyway, could you tell me what method did you use in installing the deck -- did you prior stitched the deck stringers to deck and then glued all this to the hull (like Wharram suggests in the instructions) or did you fist glued deck stringers to the beams and then glued the deck to the stringers, beams and to the sheer (using weights or maybe straps to fasten the deck until the joints will cure)?
PS! Did I noticed correctly that you did not use nails in glueing the beams to bulkheads? I switched to just clamping as well… the nail thing in that section is pretty messy and I do not like those un-sinked nail heads…
Agur
Tiki 21 nr 960
Estonia
Hey Agur,
ReplyDeleteI bet you are excited to go 3D. It's like making two giant tacos!
For the deck I did stitch the stringers to the deck beforehand. I laid them in the slots on the bulkheads first and then clamped the deck down on top. Then I marked where they were underneath with a pen. I took it all back off and then stitched them along the lines I had drawn. Once cured I made some mini fillets along them, epoxy coated them, and installed them.
For installing the decks I put glue on top of all the bulkhead supports and along the sides of the sheerstringers. Then I placed the deck down on top. I clamped it all the way around and installed a temporary wood screw about every two inches all the way around and a few across the bulkheads to seat everything well. I tried just using clamps, but they allowed for a lumpy edge to the deck.
Once that was cured I filled in the gap between deck and sheerstringer with epoxy and belt sanded it down flush. Be sure to cut the decks a little over the lines for this.
You are correct. I started just clamping stuff like bunk supports. Be sure to sand the edges of the supports at a small angle to follow the hull curvature. I had to pull all mine out to redo this!
Hope that helps. Ask again if didn't make sense.
Brad
Hi Brad,
ReplyDeleteThanks for your clarifications!
PS! Do those temporary wood screws come out easily after epoxy in the joints are cured?
Yes, Im really exited to go 3D, now I have all the sides of both hull measured and cut out and its time to epoxy coat them and glueing them together. It took me for ages to measure and mark those bulkheads :)) I got really paranoid in the end, checking everything over and over again. I had a little excitement due the fact I run into, namely it appears, that European 8 foot standard plywood sheet isn't 8 foot long, but approx 6 cm / 2,3 inches longer… I thought that I have had marked the measures incorrect as the butt blocks and 2nd and 4th bulkhead didn't fall in the pace where they ought to be regarding the ply edges according Wharram plans… so I had to remeasure and redraw everything and have some little extension for the butt blocks upper parts… :)
Lesson learned: always check if standard item is actually a standard item :))